Friday, March 8, 2013

First week of paradise!

     Hello everybody sorry for the delay on the blog post but it has been an awesome, relaxed at sometimes, and also busy first week! I am doing great here in Oahu on the North Shore, I have a great place to stay with my cousin Chris, literally a minute walk to the beach. Right in front of the house are two sick waves called Kami's and Sunset Point, I've been surfing both of them a few times and also some other sweet spots. Other than surfing I have been meeting some great people and making some awesome new friends.
     The first day I arrived we got a bite to eat and went straight to surf some fun head high warm waves down the road. It was so cool to go from surfing in HB on Saturday in a 4/3 on some fun beach break waves, then 24 hours later surfing in just trunks on a fun lil reef in Hawaii.
     The first few days of the week I got some fun sessions while my cousin Chris was at work. On Tuesday we paddled out to Sunset Point which is a heavy right hander. I was riding my Chris' 7'4" Al Merrick, my first time riding a gun. There were 10-12 ft sets (Hawaiin Size) coming in, so about 20' to 25' face waves. I have never seen waves this big, meaty, big barrels, and heavy in my life. I was definitely a little scared in the water for one of the first times in my life, but i thought to myself I'm on the North Shore, one of the best places in the world for waves. I had to at least catch a few, I snagged a few of the smaller ones on the inside, still about 15' faces. I paddled out a little farther as I saw some bigger ones coming in, as soon as I got out there a wave swung wide straight to me, I thought shit if I'm going to do this, this is the one! I paddled and caught a over 20' face wave, at one of the heaviest waves on the North Shore on my 3rd day here. It was definitely a highlight of my surfing life and will never forget that first legit big ass wave!
     On Wednesday and Thursday I hung out at our friend Mikey and Salah's house and worked on a broken scooter they had lying around the yard. I thought it would be sick to have a working scooter to cruise around on, and of course for cheap transportation. So after a little work and some help from a local scooter mechanic and I got it running and looking legit.
     Today, Friday Chris and I slept in a bit and went to check a few low key spots and ended up surfing a sick outer reef break all to ourselves. It was like a spot that any surfer would dream of, head high to a little over head peaks coming in all over the place. After catching as many waves as we could, we cruised into town (Honolulu) to get some food. Since we were going to town I got dropped off in town to hang with some old high school friends that go to school at the university. Going to hang with them for the night and celebrate a friends birthday!
     Thanks everyone for checking in and reading my first blog, keep checking back and please hit me up whenever, love to hear from friends and family!

Fun lil collage from the first few days.

Getting the scooter ready to roll!
Sunset from the treehouse.
Cousin Chris and I BBQing at a friends and overlooking firing Sunset!

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