Monday, January 29, 2018

Australian Van Tour

Hey guys its been awhile since I have blogged, but im going to try and get back into it. Here is a tour of my van I just bought here in Australia!

Sunday, May 7, 2017

Published Adventure Writer

So apparently I can add Published Writer to my list of accomplishments! I just received a few copies of a book called LegacyofStoke, I wrote an epic story from one of my many surf adventure stories and he decided to published it in Volume 2. If you would like to purchase the book and read the story of how Jeremy Jennings and I ended up on an island in Indonesia with perfect waves but couldn't surf them!
Here it the link to buy the book on Amazon:

Here it the link to buy the book on Amazon!

Wednesday, April 26, 2017

A Weekend in Baja

     Myself and my mates Chris and Jeremy wanted to get into some adventure a few weeks back so we decided to head across the border and get some waves in Baja! The whole trip began on Thursday night as we headed south to my mates in San Diego to crash for the night before crossing the border in the am! Friday morning we got across the border and down to a beach break by 8:30am, the waves looked pretty fun from shore. Jeremy and I paddled out and once we were out there realized it was bigger than expected, about 6-8 foot on the face! Chris swam out with his water housing camera setup and got worked so may times I don't know how he stayed out that long I was really surprised!

     After getting a few we headed little farther south to grab tacos, check a few more spots, and cruise through downtown Ensenada. Of course we ended up at Papas and Beer like most people do, what a great place to people watch. The cruise from Long Beach to Ensenada and back drops all the people
off in town for a few hours on Saturday, so it is quite the scene seeing them run around drunk. Once we got some more tacos for dinner we headed back North a bit to a camp spot on a cobblestone right point.As we pulled up our next door camping neighbors were two Australians that were cruising a van around the west coast for a few months. As we had few beers, sat by the fire, and exchanged stories from all of our travels it was pure bliss, exactly what we all came down to Baja for!

The next morning the swell we came down for did not quite end up being all we thought it would. Never the less I got in the water with the Aussies and a local for a few waves early in the am. Cant not get out in the water when its only a few guys out at a chest high cobblestone right, especially with Jeremy on the rocks coaching haha. After the morning surf we cruised north back to the La Fonda area and had the infamous endless brunch on the cliff there while checking the waves out front. As  Chris was going through the endless bloody mary's Jeremy and I decided to work our brunch off with a surf out front before heading back to the border line that Sunday evening. Getting 3 surf sessions in, lots of tacos, few beers, and meeting a few new friends made the 300 mile in two days trip all worth it!

Sunday, January 8, 2017

100 Days Central America Ep3_ Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, and Nicaragua

In Episode 3 we cross into Guatemala a country not really known for waves, beautiful none the less. Entering into El Salvador in the night was a fun experience but we woke up to a fun right point break. David has to fly home for a family wedding for a few days while I make some new friends and find a waterfall in the jungle! When David returns we venture south to the Las Flores area where we hit a swell dead on and get some of the best waves of our lives. On our way through Honduras we run into some trouble at the boarder which results in David getting injured and not able to surf in Nicaragua. Which ends up being the smallest waves we had seen in over a month!
Surf Shop in Guatemala!
Epic Surf Resort in El Salvador!
Need somerwhere to stay in Nicaragua?

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Music by:
Pacific Dub- Sundown
Midnight Oils- Beds are burning
Naxxos- New Orleans

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Five foot South Swell and a Saturday morning at the Wedge

First few to sneak through. Photo Mike Paskin
When we arrived at 7:40am
Photos from Saturday Oct. 1, 2016

The Wedge is Southern California's calling to that crazy, short ride, pounding, quick rush, kind of wave. The proper wedge wave near the jetty is a pronounced left that breaks with just about any sort of south swell over 4 foot. It was until recently was it ever really to popular to attempt to surf it, but now a days more and more people are lurching for that rush of attempting to get as shacked as possible before ending up on the beach with a mouthful of sand and/or a sore ass.This weekend was no different and I thought I would have a go at it. I called up my Mike Paskin who has been shooting barrel and shore break shots for the last few years and he was all about it! We attempted to get to the Wedge early but still didn't get out int he water till about 8:30am. The proper peak at the jetty was packed and not to many surfers. So we opted for the next peak down which is known as Cylinders and is predominately a right, which I like better since I'm regular footed. The next two hours were epic trading off barre with a few other crazy's and one of my favorite pro surfers!
My buddy Ryan Croteau on an early one before we got out. Photo Steve Dillon
Myself Brian Daigneault on the bigger one I got that morning. Photo Mike Paskin

Inside one few feet form the sand, Brian Daigneault. Photo Mike Paskin

Mason Ho is one of those surfers everybody cant watch enough, whether its his interviews, crazy edits, or a wsl wildcards. Here he is on a layover in SoCal between trips and decided to hit the wedge for his second time ever. Photo Mike Paskin

One of the deeper ones I got, Brian Daigneault. Photo Mike Paskin

Mason Ho just gliding into a closeout barrel in 3 feet of sand and  hundreds of gallons of water. Photo Mike Paskin