Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Five foot South Swell and a Saturday morning at the Wedge

First few to sneak through. Photo Mike Paskin
When we arrived at 7:40am
Photos from Saturday Oct. 1, 2016

The Wedge is Southern California's calling to that crazy, short ride, pounding, quick rush, kind of wave. The proper wedge wave near the jetty is a pronounced left that breaks with just about any sort of south swell over 4 foot. It was until recently was it ever really to popular to attempt to surf it, but now a days more and more people are lurching for that rush of attempting to get as shacked as possible before ending up on the beach with a mouthful of sand and/or a sore ass.This weekend was no different and I thought I would have a go at it. I called up my Mike Paskin who has been shooting barrel and shore break shots for the last few years and he was all about it! We attempted to get to the Wedge early but still didn't get out int he water till about 8:30am. The proper peak at the jetty was packed and not to many surfers. So we opted for the next peak down which is known as Cylinders and is predominately a right, which I like better since I'm regular footed. The next two hours were epic trading off barre with a few other crazy's and one of my favorite pro surfers!
 
   
My buddy Ryan Croteau on an early one before we got out. Photo Steve Dillon
Myself Brian Daigneault on the bigger one I got that morning. Photo Mike Paskin

Inside one few feet form the sand, Brian Daigneault. Photo Mike Paskin

Mason Ho is one of those surfers everybody cant watch enough, whether its his interviews, crazy edits, or a wsl wildcards. Here he is on a layover in SoCal between trips and decided to hit the wedge for his second time ever. Photo Mike Paskin

One of the deeper ones I got, Brian Daigneault. Photo Mike Paskin

Mason Ho just gliding into a closeout barrel in 3 feet of sand and  hundreds of gallons of water. Photo Mike Paskin